![]() You don’t have to safe guard these AGMs from very large charging sources as you do with lithiums. I can assure you that our present 860Ah AGM bank, with no limitations on how big a charging source it can be connected to, has the ability to take 300A in Bulk charging mode. People often confuse the longer time it takes to get the last 10-15% into an AGM battery, with it having an inferior Bulk charge acceptance rate. Or even the more robust and heavy duty well tested MasterVolt line. Just look at the specs on the Lithium Blues above. There are no limitations on charge current on these AGM batteries, whereas marine lithium batteries, by comparison, are severely restricted by the mfgs in regard to recommended charge rates. It is a common misconception that lithium batteries have a higher practical charge acceptance rate than quality AGM batteries such as TPPL AGMs which we have standardized on. I would like to make a point tangential to your concern. I don’t believe the Overkill BMS has an external trigger to shut down the alternator, though it would be nice. The second option is indeed an alternator saver like you mentioned. That way your alternator is only connected to a battery that’s not ever going to disconnect. First, and possibly the safest option because it changes the charging system as little as possible, would be to maintain a lead-acid battery for engine start and then use a DC to DC converter from the lead-acid battery to the LiFePO4. I think (but I’m still learning here as well so everyone should feel free to chime in) you have several options to avoid damaging your alternator. That quickly resulted in the BMS shutting down charging - as it should. I did force it by setting the power supply to 14.8v with a fully charged battery. In my normal charging thus far, with the bench power supply set to 14.4v I haven’t seen this event. The only time there’s a disconnect event is when a cell or the battery as a whole violates the over-voltage thresholds. The cells taper to accepting nearly zero amperage, but there’s not a disconnect event. ![]() I don’t have a specific application for this battery yet and felt that 120 amps was likely to be enough for any use I dream up for the batteries, so I stuck with the 120-amp BMS.įirst, at least with regards to the BMS I’m using (from Overkill Solar), the BMS doesn’t disconnect when the battery reaches full charge. The batteries’ specs aren’t overly clear but they appear to be able to sustain 1C continual load or 280 amps. Although the BMS was back-ordered, it arrived a few weeks later and well ahead of the batteries. I selected an Overkill Solar 4S, 12-volt, 120-amp BMS paired with my batteries. The seller says these are brand new cells and they look it, though I’m not sure I’d know if they weren’t. The batteries took about two months to arrive, which isn’t surprising for heavy items with the current international shipping challenges. The data plate on one of the cells I’m usingįor my DIY LiFePO4 battery, I picked four, 3.2-volt, 280-amp hour cells direct from China via Aliexpress.With two out of three types covered I figured it was time to get my hands dirty with the third type, a do-it-yourself build of a 12-volt LiFePO4 battery. In March I installed Mastervolt’s system integrated MLi batteries on Have Another Day and just last week I finished up the installation of Battle Born’s 8D drop-in batteries on another boat. In the last couple of months I’ve installed two of the three main types of lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries. Four 280 amp hour LiFePO4 cells ready to become a 12-volt battery
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